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Wiki+ page: Wiki+ home

Welcome to the Virtual Front Porch

To find main areas of the wiki, look below for child pages. The main goals of the Virtual Front Porch: This is a wiki, meaning you can make it better by:
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Wiki+ page: Needed Pages

If you want to create a wiki+ page, but aren't sure where it needs to go…

Edit this page (click the Edit Page button at the bottom right of this page.)

Click the Disable WYSIWYG editing button to the top right of this editing box.
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Add the name of your page below surrounded by 2 sets of square brackets.
Example[[Page Name]]

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Example - A multi-platform Real Time Simulation computer game Click the Save button.

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Click that link.
On the page that comes up click the "Create Page" button.
Voila! There you go.

At a later time, when the structure is in place you can remove the link from this page.

Orphan pages go below

0 A.D. - A multi-platform Real Time Simulation computer game


Wiki+ page: Amaryllis


Bulb used as houseplant

Afterbloom care

  • After the amaryllis has bloomed, trim the flowering stalk to within a couple inches of the bulb.
  • Keep the soil barely moist and give the plant bright, indirect light and temperatures around 60 degrees F.
  • Move the plant to a sunnier location (southern exposure, if possible) and start fertilizing regularly with liquid fertilizer.
  • The goal is to get the plant to grow lots of leaves.
  • Move the plant outside to a part-sun location.
  • During warm spells, you may have to water the plant daily.
  • You can even plant the bulb directly in the garden for summer.
  • Continue regular feeding with liquid fertilizer.
  • In early fall, withhold water, which will help the plant go dormant.
    • Be sure to bring the bulb indoors before frost, if necessary.
  • After about a month, the soil and foliage should be dried out.
    • At that point, take the bulb from its pot and shake off the excess soil.
    • Store it for about eight weeks in a cool, dark place.
  • After the rest period, "wake up" the bulb by repotting it in fresh soil and resume watering — sparingly at first.
    • Once you see new growth, increase watering.
      • You can expect another floral display within five to eight weeks.


Wiki+ page: M - Music

Library of Congress Classifications

M - Music
ML - Music Literature
MT - Music
Instruction & Study

VFP Additional

Open to any and all jabis about how you would like to expand the Music Front Porch.
  • jabi = Just Another Bright Idea
    • pronounced jab eye
Some jabis to prime the pump:
  • Genres
    • Pop, Country, Jazz, Rock, Hip-Hop
  • Artists
    • George Jones, Aerosmith, ZZ Top, Beyonce
  • Albums
    • Another Brick in the Wall, Eliminator

Wiki Pages

Scroll down to find child pages by each letter
  • To add bands or artists...
    • Click on the child page with the 1st letter of your band or artist 
      • If you see your band or artist, click it to visit their page.
      • If you don't see your band or artist, click the "Add child page" link
We will have a wiki page for each
  • band or artist
  • album
  • song
    • Feel free to add
      • lyrics
      • Any additional info you would like

Links Directory

As an alternative...

We can easily add YouTubes to our Links Directory


Wiki+ page: Growing Apples

Growing Apples



NOTE: One bushel is equal to 42 pounds.
  • A mature dwarf apple tree will generally produce 3 to 6 bushels of fruit.
    • Stark Bros. says 1-4 bushels
  • start producing fruit the second season after planting
  • generally have a life span of about 20 years.
  • plant at least 8 feet apart


  • A semidwarf tree will produce 6 to 10 bushels of apples.
    • Stark Bros. says 5-10 bushels
  • up to 25 feet tall
  • begin to produce fruit four years after planting
    • and continue to bear for 25 years
  • Plant 15-20 feet apart


  • Produces 10-20 bushels of fruit
  • Plant 25 feet apart
  • Live 50 years or more



In Missouri, Apples should be planted in late March or before April 15 when the soil is thawed and air temperatures are cool.
  • Apple trees purchased in containers can be planted in mid- to late October.


  • full sun (at least six or more hours)
    • where the soil is reasonably deep and fertile
      • with good water drainage.


If needed, phosphorus should be incorporated into the planting hole before setting the tree.
Prefer pH of 6.0-6.5

Never expose tree roots to sun or drying winds so that they become dry before planting.
  • After receiving trees, unwrap the package and make sure the roots are moist.
  • Keep roots packed in moist peat moss, sawdust, or strips of newspaper until ready to plant.
  • Keep the roots cool (but above freezing). 
  • Try to plant trees soon after they are received.
    • Trees held for longer than a few days may bud out and can be susceptible to breakage.
  • About an hour before planting, soak tree roots in a bucket of water to ensure that they are hydrated.
Dig a hole about 2 feet wider than the spread of the tree roots and deep enough to prevent crowding.
  • The tree should be planted at the same depth as it was in the nursery.
  • Always keep the graft union 2 inches above the final soil line. 
  • Prune broken roots and shorten long roots to 12 to 18 inches.
    • Use sharp pruning shears.
  • Place the tree in the hole and arrange the roots so they aren’t overlapping.
    • If they appear cramped, make the hole larger!
  • Refill the hole with the same soil that was removed from the hole.
    • Refilling the hole with other materials will create an undesirable situation.
  • To avoid air pockets, tamp the soil with your foot as the hole is filled.
  • After the soil has been firmly tamped, slowly apply 1 or 2 gallons of water to the tree.
    • This will hydrate the tree and help settle the soil around the roots.
    • Add additional soil if needed to maintain the soil at the same level as that surrounding the hole (unless planting on a berm).
  • If the graft union of the tree sinks into the soil, reposition it so it remains 2 inches above the soil level.
  • During this first growing season, the goal is to
    • select four good scaffold branches
    • that are evenly spaced around the trunk of the tree
    • at about 26 to 30 inches from the soil surface.
Rodent guard.
  • After planting, a 15- to 18-inch piece of hardware cloth should be placed around the trunk of the tree to prevent rabbit, mice, or vole damage.
    • It should be placed about four inches into the soil.
    • As the tree becomes older, do not permit the hardware cloth to girdle the trunks.
  • White plastic spiral tree guards should be avoided as they can provide a habitat for insect pests that may damage the tree.
  • A stake should be placed beside an apple tree to provide support.
  • A 2 x 2-inch stake is generally sufficient.
  • For trees on dwarfing rootstocks, the stake should be 10 feet tall and will remain in the ground for the life of the tree.
    • Small trees can be easily overloaded with apples and will lean or break because of their weaker root system.
  • Stakes for trees on semidwarfing rootstocks should be 6 to 8 feet tall.
    • Stakes on these trees are needed only in the first five years after planting.
    • After this time, the root system and the framework of the tree are generally strong enough to support the tree with fruit on it.
  • After selecting a stake, drive it 2 feet into the soil.
  • Secure the tree to the stake by a heavy no. 9 wire and a section of an old garden hose or some other material to prevent scrapping off the bark when the tree moves in the wind.


  • One month after spring planting, apply about a half pound of 12-12-12 (or similar analysis) fertilizer per tree
    • in a circular band around the edge of the original planting hole.
  • The year after planting, apply about one pound of 12-12-12 fertilizer per tree
    • in a circular band under the drip line of the tree canopy
      • just before growth begins in the spring.
  • In subsequent years, fertilizer needs will probably increase;
  • Never more than 2 pounds of nitrogen per year (about 2 cups of 12-12-12)

Thinning Fruit

  • Keep all apples off young trees during the first two years.
  • In the third year, fruit can be left on the scaffold branches but should be removed from the central leader.
  • Beginning in the fourth year, the central leader and scaffold branches can be cropped, but fruit should be selectively thinned.
During a heavy bloom season, apples commonly set too many fruits.
  • Remove all excess fruits during the first week of June.
    • This is after the time of the last natural drop.
  • In thinning, leave only one apple per cluster and space the apples not closer than 6 inches apart.
  • This may remove more than three-fourths of the apples on the tree.
  • Although this practice may seem drastic, it is essential for
    • (1) good-sized apples at harvest and
    • (2) development of fruit buds for next year’s crop.
  • When thinning, leave the largest apple in the cluster unless it is damaged in some way.
  • With just a few trees, this operation can be done by hand in a few hours.
  • If fruit are not thinned, the crop will be greatly reduced the following year.

Pest control.

  • Plant on a well-drained site; berms or tile drainage should improve a poorly drained site.
  • Fertilize properly; excessive, vigorous growth or weak growth is disease-prone.
  • Prune and train properly; sunlight penetration and air movement are essential for drying the tree off, which will help prevent disease.
  • Prune and remove any diseased or insect-infested fruit or branches.
    • fire blight is commonly controlled by cutting out branches 6 to 8 inches below the diseased wood
    • apple scab can often be controlled by raking up and destroying diseased leaves in the fall.
  • Control weeds properly.
    • Weeds compete with the plant for moisture and nutrients and harbor many other pests;
    • use herbicides, a weed barrier type of mulch, or shallow cultivation to reduce weed competition.
  • Plant disease-resistant cultivars when possible.


By the third year (fruiting year) after planting, obtain an adequate sprayer of some kind.
  • A compressed air sprayer or knapsack sprayer is adequate for a limited number of dwarf trees.
See this schedule


Most apple cultivars will quickly deteriorate without adequate cold storage below 40 degrees F.


  • Trees like apples benefit from a central leader pruning structure.
  • Avoid cutting into one-year-old growth on lateral branches or scaffold limbs (that is, heading cuts) as this promotes excessive vegetative growth.
  • maintain the narrow pyramidal shape of the tree by removing any vigorous shoots that are competing with the central leader in March
  • Remove all suckers and watersprouts when they appear

Expand: Picture & Video Gallery Picture & Video Gallery


Off site Links from our Gardening Links Directory

Title Description
Grow Your Own Apples Better Homes & Gardens

It's fun and easy to grow apples in your own backyard. Follow the tips below to ensure beautifully grown apples!
Growing apples in the home garden University of Minnesota Extension

You certainly don't need to plant a whole orchard to enjoy apples right off the tree. Two trees will reward any family with enough fruit to enjoy and share with friends...
How to Grow Apple Trees Stark Bro's


Wiki+ page: Growing Asparagus

Growing Asparagus
  • a perennial vegetable
    • can yield for 10 or more years.
  • a dioecious plant, which means that there are separate male and female plants.
    • Male asparagus plants (Jersey types) produce more spears than female plants do.

Preparing the asparagus bed

  • asparagus will not tolerate wet, soggy soil
  • Asparagus will perform best in sandy, light-textured soils.
  • The optimal pH for asparagus is 6.5 to 7.0
  • Cultivate 6" to 12" deep
  • Asparagus plants will not tolerate grass or weed competition. 


  • Asparagus should be planted in the spring as early as the soil in the garden or field can be worked.
  • Spacing 12-18"
  • Can plant in a raised bed
    • a 2x8 bed holds about 14-16 plants
  • put a shovel of compost and a cup of all-purpose, organic fertilizer in the trench every 18".
    • Rock phosphate, a natural mineral powder, is another good addition.


  • keep your asparagus bed well-mulched
  • When fall arrives, the fronds will turn yellow.
    • At this time, it's generally best to cut the fronds about an inch above ground level and remove them from the area.


Asparagus usually likes a balanced fertilizer of 5-10-10 or 8-24-24.
  • The first 3 years in spring, apply a well-balanced fertilizer.
  • Starting the fourth year, delay application until June or July (immediately after harvest).
  • This approach encourages vigorous growth of the “fern,” which produces and stores nutrients in the roots for next year’s production season.


  • Allow asparagus to grow without harvesting the year it is planted.
  • In the second year, harvest spears that are 1/2-inch in diameter, but only for two weeks.
    • Cut or break off 7- to 9-inch-long spears with tightly closed tips.
  • In subsequent years, harvest for five to eight weeks,
    • then allow the shoots to develop into ferny growth to build up the roots for the following year's crop.

Expand: Click for Videos Click for Videos


Asparagus Downloads


Title Sort by Title, Ascending Sort by Title, Descending Description Sort by Description, Ascending Sort by Description, Descending
Asparagus BH&G
This early-spring treat is one of the few perennial vegetable crops, so once you get a patch established, it will give you many years of delicious harvests for little work.
Asparagus If you love asparagus and want to grow some yourself, waste no time in getting an asparagus bed planted
Growing asparagus in Minnesota home gardens University of Minnesota Extension

On this page
  • Planting
  • Soil pH and fertility
  • Watering
  • Controlling weeds
  • Harvesting
  • Common problems
How To Grow Asparagus IF you love asparagus and want to grow some yourself, waste no time in getting started. Even with the best of care, an asparagus bed won't hit its stride for several years. But once that happens, the bed will produce an abundant crop of spears spring after spring for at least the next 20 to 30 years.
How to Grow Asparagus Plants Stark Bro's

This topic is broken into a series of articles that focus on the key components of planting and growing asparagus plants. This includes getting started, care & maintenance, and other topics.

Asparagus is a perennial bulb and stem vegetable that greets us every spring. It may take 2 to 3 years to get started and produce, so patience is needed! But then the plant can be productive up to 20 years, so we think it’s worth the wait...

Expand: Click for more Gardening Pages Click for more Gardening Pages



Wiki+ page: Growing Beets



  • soil should be at least 40 F
  • grow well in cool temperatures in spring and fall and do poorly in hot weather.
  • plant the seeds 3 inches apart in the row.
    • Depth =1/2 inch
    • Cover the seeds lightly with loose soil, and then sprinkle it with water.
    • 18" between rows
  • You should see the plants sprouting in seven to 14 days.
  • If you want a continuous supply,
    • plant your beets in several plantings,
      • about three weeks apart from each other.

How much to plant per person

  • Fresh use
    • 5-10' of row
  • Processing
    • 10-20' of row


  • seven to eight weeks from planting


Wiki+ page: Growing Tomatoes

Growing Tomatoes

Start from seeds

  • start your seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the average last spring frost date.
  • Plant 2 or 3 seeds per cell.
    • Thin to the strongest one.
    • Snip with scissors. Pulling can disturb remaining roots.
  • cover with 1/4" of soil.
  • water, but don't soak.
  • Cover
    • Remove when you see sprouts.
  • Fertilize twice/week with 1/2 strength water soluble fertilizer.
  • Don't let roots get root bound.
    • Transplant into larger pots as needed.


  • after last frost date when soil is warm.
  • Protect if there is a late frost
  • Add slightly lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus fertilizer to the soil, such as a 5-10-5 or a 5-10-10 


  • Water 2 inches per week
  • Fertilize weekly once the plant starts setting fruit.
  • Keep weeded
  • Trellis, cage or provide support as needed.
    • Don't buy those cheap little cages except for some cherry tomatoes.


  • 6-8 weeks after transplanting until a killing frost.


Tips & Tricks

  • Ease a headache by drinking tomato juice blended with fresh basil.

Expand: Picture & Video Gallery Picture & Video Gallery

Gardening Downloads


Off site Links from our Gardening Links Directory

Title Sort by Title, Ascending Sort by Title, Descending Description Sort by Description, Ascending Sort by Description, Descending
15 Fun Ideas for Growing Tomatoes BH&G
Grow your own taste-tempting tomatoes and save money on your grocery bill. We show you 15 fun ways to grow and train this popular vegetable.
Compact Tomato Plants Yield Full-Size Flavors Container-friendly varieties bring a rainbow of colors to small-space gardeners
Could red mulch make your berries and tomatoes sweeter and bigger? Can red plastic give you a better tomato? It’s a matter of light and shade
Early Tomatoes UC Master Gardener Program of Sonoma County
I’m going to do an experiment this year in an attempt to grow tomatoes that ripen much earlier than tomatoes normally do in Sonoma County.
...relative to the year, and other tomatoes this year, and by all the stories I've heard from others, the early planting was a qualified success--much better than others, BUT no tomatoes by the beginning or even middle of June.
Get Your Tomatoes off to a Perfect Start BH&G
Enjoy your best crop of tomatoes yet with these 10 tips to get your tomato plants off to a strong start.
Getting Ready for Tomato Canning Peaceful Valley Farm Supply, Inc.
By Meredith Cherry at on October 01, 2015
Water bath canning is a great way to preserve all of the tomatoes your garden has been producing. Prepare yourself for canning day by selecting the best varieties and recipes for your year-round tomato needs.
Growing Tomatoes
You don't need a big yard to grow tomatoes-you can even raise these tasty gems in pots. Admittedly, there are a few tricks to raising a bumper crop, like knowing how to plant tomatoes properly (the secret is to plant deeply). You also have to get the timing right. Tomatoes crave heat, and they're typically planted in spring for a summer crop.
Here are our top tips for growing tomatoes.
Growing Tomatoes - Does Red Mulch Help Tomatoes Ripen Faster? Are Colored Plastic Mulches Better for Your Tomatoes?
How to Plant Tomatoes in Plastic Film When you garden where the summer is short or temperatures are moderate, plastic film mulch can warm the soil to provide a jump start – but it can do much more. 
How To Prevent Late Blight On Tomatoes LATE blight, a disease that strikes tomatoes and potatoes, can quickly ruin an entire crop — and provide a source of infection for other plants.
Mulching Tomato Plants: What’s The Best Mulch For Tomatoes? Tomatoes are a favorite of many gardeners, and it only takes a few healthy plants for an ample harvest of fresh, plump fruit. Most people who grow robust tomato plants with healthy fruit know the importance of mulching. Mulching tomato plants is a great practice for many reasons. Let’s explore some popular mulch options for tomatoes.
Review: Red Plastic Mulch for Tomatoes –Does It Make a Difference? Red plastic mulch was actually not introduced as mulch. Rather, its developers (USDA’s plant physiologist Michael J. Kasperbauer and Clemson University nematologist Bruce Fornum) found that it increased yields up to 20%.
Simple Pruning Technique Improves Tomato Harvest Pruning and using plant supports can help create healthier, more productive tomato plants.
Six Ways To Accelerate Your Tomato Harvest Get the first ripe tomatoes in your neighborhood!
Tomato Blossom End Rot BH&G
Tomato blossom end rot can ruin even the most promising of tomato plants. Learn how to prevent tomato blossom end rot and remedy it once it starts, as well as ways to troubleshoot other common tomato ailments.
Tomato crop guide – get the most of your tomato fertilizer Nutritional recommendations for tomato, in open-field, tunnels and greenhouse
Tomato Plant Diseases BH&G
Learning how to grow tomatoes is a popular vegetable gardening pastime. And nothing ruins a homemade crop of tomatoes faster than tomato plant diseases such as tomato wilt and tomato pests. Use this guide to identify and treat tomato pests and tomato plant problems as soon as they start in your homegrown tomato garden patch.
Top Heirloom Tomatoes BH&G
Heirloom tomatoes provide far superior flavor than their store-bought counterparts. You're sure to find some of the best-tasting heirloom tomatoes you've ever had in this list of our favorite varieties.
Troubleshooting Tomato Problems What's wrong with my tomatoes?
Learn how to diagnose and treat
anything else?


Wiki+ page: GoldCoin (GLD)

GoldCoin (GLD)

The Gold Standard of Digital Currency


Find out more:

Wallet Platforms


  • Send and receive coins
  • Mine coins


  • Send and receive coins
  • No mining tab.


Untested. If you have tested please add some info here.


Untested. If you have tested please add some info here.
  • I was unable to get the program running on Manjaro.


Wiki+ page: Welcome Authors

Share Your Common Sense

jabi = Just Another Bright Idea

☆ Welcome ☆
The Virtual Front Porch feature list is quite large.
We are attempting to document how everything works.
Consider this The Virtual Front Porch to discuss how to use the Virtual Front Porch

Our main area of content is our Wiki.

  • It contains hundreds of pages. (2212 as of 1/23/2017)
  • wiki is a website that provides collaborative modification of its content and structure directly from the web browser.
    • Collaborative = produced or conducted by two or more parties working together.
    • That means you are welcomed and encouraged to make changes!
      • See something missing?
      • See poor grammar?
      • See misspellings?
        • You can correct it!
  • Wiki Etiquitte
    • Disagree with something?
      • Do not simply delete that content.
      • Make an addition stating what you believe.
        • Maybe even creating a new page.
        • And adding links between both…
    • No personal attacks tolerated.
      • Do not call a person stupid or any other derogatory term.
  • Make a good wiki page.
    • Assume the person reading your page knows nothing about the topic.
    • Create child pages needed for more in depth information.
    • Start some discussions to toss around jabis.
  • Add supporting info:

Jump right in, the water's great!

Everyone is an expert at something.
Share your common sense



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